Ecosmarte Pool

Chemicals
Chlorine is the dominant form of pool sanitation but Bromine, Bacquacil, and Sodium Tetraborate sanitation has a statistical presence.

Those pools using an alternative form of chemical sanitation will most likely be required to drain the pool to convert back to chlorine or install an alternative sanitizing device. The number of alternative chemical pools is falling dramatically while the percentage of pools with a device is increasing.

Bromine users will operate the pool testing free bromine, total bromine, pH, calcium hardness and total alkalinity, all critical as with chlorine.

Bromine users will typically use non-chlorine shock to respond to cloudy water and often need weekly algaecide treatment.

Bromine salts themselves typically cloud water and movement to a copper sanitizing device will require draining the pool to avoid copper salts which can be toxic as well as cloud the water.

Bromine has better microbe kill rates on hot water (versus chlorine), has become the dominant sanitizer for spas but very few pool companies inventory the larger packaging to support a swimming pool or employ the expertise to operate one.

Bacquacil (and private label bioguanides)

By far the dominant chemical other than chlorine in swimming pools is Bacquacil. The sanitation chemical itself (and the shock) is considerably less irritating and is more expensive than chlorine, requires regular algaecide supplement and annual filter media change out but does provide some economies on alkalinity up and calcium hardness increase. Bacquacil is much less corrosive than chlorine or bromine, although some evidence exists that each year the pool water is in the pool, the more sanitation chemical is required regardless of weather. Bacquacil users should consider draining and refilling the pool (in addition to filter media change out) every 3 to 5 years instead of the 7 to 10 year window with chlorine.

Sodium Tetraborate Pools: PROTEAM

These pools are referenced because a statistical presence exists. The manufacturer of this patented system, The John Girvam Company in Florida should be contacted directly for assistance in operating these pools and updating proprietary test kits. Materials are generally shipped from Florida.

BACKWASHING YOUR SAND FILTER

Sand filters must plug and have pressure rise on their gauge to remove small particles from the pool. A functional pressure gauge is necessary to successfully operate the pool. Pools with 1970 to 1980 slide valves instead of multiport valves should upgrade the slide valve to a 6 way multiport as their most cost effective pool purchase they can make.

Without a rinse feature the slide valve is incapable of removing algae spore, phosphate, and human cells from water. Many slide valve owners report “dog breath” odors near their filter or eventually in the entire pool.

Backwashing the pool should occur after 6 lb pressure rise on the gauge and prior to a 10 lb rise over starting pressure. The starting pressure must be recorded after a proper backwash. The gauge can be marked with a waterproof marker so any pool professional or family member will know the operating status of your filter.

The proper method is 2 minutes backwash followed by 30 seconds rinse AND a second 2 minute backwash followed by rinse to clear in the small site glass at the top of your filter. YOU MUST TURN THE PUMP OFF between each movement on the multiport valve or you will damage the “spider” o-ring inside the valve. The multiport valve should easily and distinctly lock into position.

When finished with the second backwash/rinse cycle the pump should be turned off and the valve returned to the “filter” position. The pool should be operating at your starting pressure. The “recirculate” and “waste” settings are covered under “Problem Solving” and vacuum chapters of this book.

Backwashing too frequently will result in more chemical use and less water clarity with a sand filter, especially if zeolite or glass media is used. Any sand filtered pool that has gone four weeks without a pressure rise should backwash the pool regardless of pool clarity.

Three basic types of filters exist for both above ground and in-ground swimming pools:

• Sand Filter
• Diatomaceous Earth
• Cartridge

It is important to confirm the size of filter is adequate for your pool and your pool pump is rated for your filter. Generally the filter cannot be oversized, in other words the bigger the better. An undersized filter will easily double your chemical use, double your time spent on water chemistry and give you many days of murky water. Very few above ground pools are sold with an adequate filter.

Sand Filter Size Maximum U. S. Gallons
180 LBS 9,000
200 LBS 12,000
300 LBS 26,000
500 LBS 36,000
600 LBS 50,000
900 LBS 75,000

Pools with inadequate filters can either add a second filter or increase the size by replacing an existing filter. In the case of sand filters an upgrade in the media itself may permit a marginally sized filter to successfully operate the pool. Media options will result in a specific micron removal with a properly sized pump.

Several years ago many swimming pool dealers began switching exclusively to salt water systems. These salt water systems require that pool owners maintain a chlorine generation system in order to produce the chlorine needed to fight germs and bacteria. Since then many owners have begun switching back to the problems associated with salt water swimming pools.

Not Maintenance Free

Many people purchased salt water swimming pools under the impression that salt water pools were practically maintenance free. No more testing and no chlorine to add are certainly major factors in switching over to salt water system. The truth though is that there is quite a bit of maintenance needed. The salt that is added to water requires constant monitoring because it affects the alkalinity of the water. Alkaline affects pH levels. The pH levels in turn affect how effective chlorine is. Once the pH levels have risen too high, chlorine is no longer able to disinfect the system. High pH levels also increase irritation for swimmers.

Cost

Installing a salt water pool is a very costly venture. Many new pool owners quickly discover that the cost of salt is much more expensive then chlorine. Sadly that isn’t the end of your investment. If you choose a salt water pool, then within a few years you will discover just how much more you will be spending.

In just a couple of years you will have to deal with corroded parts. Salt is a corrosive chemical and since your pump parts are in constant contact with them, it is only a matter of time before they succumb to it. You will also have to replace a chlorine generation cell after just three years. These units are not cheap starting at about $400. Depending on the features you have surrounding your pool you may also be replacing furniture and expensive stone. Most of the owners that surround their pools with natural stones like lime stone are finding that salt eat away at it quicker then other natural factors.

Most salt water pool dealers will be happy to sell you chemical agents that help protect against salt buildup and corrosion, but isn’t that why you wanted to stop using chlorine?

Still Using Chlorine

What many fail to realize is that salt water pools still use chlorine. Using expensive cells to create the chlorine still exposes your skin to this chemical. While many people will claim that the soft water feel of a salt water pool cannot be beat, it is rare that an owner will be able to achieve the perfect balance. Many people live in areas where the tap water is extremely “hard”, the amount of water needed to soften this water will affect the salinity of the pool and can cause many other issues.

So what is your alternative? For a truly chemical-free experience you will want to avoid needing to add salts, chlorine or other dangerous chemicals to your water. There are several alternatives that do not require salt or chlorine to give you clean and safe pool water.

Since 1980, the vinyl liner has made substantantial inroads to the swimming pool and has become the dominant choice. In the northern seasonal markets some have argued vinyl pools are crack resistant during a freeze, their 7 to 15 year window on vinyl replacement is less expensive than a replaster project and the vinyl surface is always friendly to the swimmer. Liner replacement is typically $3000 to $4000, less than a replaster in every North American market.

A growing number of vinyl builders have been found in Texas, California and Florida although the Fiberglass builders have made in-roads in the desert pools of Arizona and Nevada. Ninety plus percent of the Northern U.S. pools are lined with vinyl and these pools have begun showing up in Texas, Florida, and California.

Operating Issues:
As with plaster pools the calcium hardness should be maintained above 200ppm and pH above 6.6 (7.2 if using chlorine or bromine). Sanitizer levels above 5.0ppm free chlorine can bleach the liner as can improper handling of chlorine or acid. They are more resistant to stains, less resistant to mold underneath the pool or damage from concentrated chemicals. Confirm all drainage flow from the house is directed away from the pool.

Maintenance Issues:
Vinyl pools require little maintenance and have a 6 to 20 year life dependant on water chemistry. Liners are replaced at a cost of $3,000 to $4,000 and come in hundreds of colors. If your liner pool is built in clay (vs. sand) soil environment, proper back filling and drainage are needed to keep water from forming under the liner and giving you water mold issues.

Make certain ALL drainpipes are pointed away from the pool. If water is running toward your pool from the neighbor’s higher elevation house, installing a French drain system may be necessary.

Vinyl pools do not require weekly brushing to avoid algae in high season but do have other issues. Shocking the pool with chlorine must be done with care to avoid bleaching and spotting. Distribute shock (liquid or solid) around the pool and emphasize the deep end. Dilute liquid acid with water in five gallon bucket and “pool” it in the deep end of the pool when adjusting pH down. Keep calcium above 200 ppm and pH above 6.6 to avoid the liner becoming brittle before its ten year life.

Weekly Tasks for All Pools

• TEST PH
• TEST SANITIZER
• EMPTY SKIMMER BASKET
• EMPTY PUMP BASKET
• VACUUM ALL LEAVES
• CONSIDER BACKWASH if pressure has risen on filter. Clean the cartridge.

Annual Maintenance Items: Tests

• TEST PHOSPHATES AND REMOVE w/CHEMICAL.
• TEST CALCIUM HARDNESS AND ADJUST
• TEST CYANURIC ACID ON CHLORINE POOL

Annual Maintenance Items: Filter

• REPLACE CARTRIDGE (12 TO 24 months life)
• SOAK DE GRIDS IN ACID/WATER (5 parts water, 1 part acid)
• CHECK BED DEPTH ON SAND FILTER ANNUALLY (2-3 in Southern markets, 1-2 times in Northern markets):
o Sand
o ZEOlite
o GLASS

(Filter bed depth should be six to eight inches from the top of the filter and, if short, will result in murky water and/or increased chemical use.)

In southern pools these items will result in extra charges from the service. With northern pools they can be ordered with an opening or closing and also involve charges.

Fiberglass Pools
Perhaps the fastest growing surface choice is a fiberglass pool. This trend is consistent with pools in general getting smaller and not having diving boards or deep ends. The entire shell has been trucked in as one piece so the size is predetermined and freight expenses along with road restrictions limit the size.

Operating Issues:

The fiberglass pool will generally require less maintenance if it has been properly installed, whether it is an entire fiberglass shell or fiberglass applied over plaster. The smooth source will not usually require brushing.

Maintenance Issues:

Keeping calcium above 200 ppm and avoiding high sanitizer levels will keep this surface from staining or spotting. Fiberglass owners with well water may wish to put an iron filter on their outdoor swimming pool feed line. Use Vitamin C tablets to remove spots or granular ascorpbic acid if it is available, no more than one kilogram per 10,000 gallons.

Saltwater pool systems produce chlorine from salt by using a generator to initiate electrolysis. Electrolysis is the conduction of electricity through something melted or dissolved in order to induce decomposition if the dissolved chemical into its components. Essentially, saltwater pool systems save you the hassle of having to buy and handle chlorine. The only thing you need to buy with for a saltwater pool system is salt. Through the chemical process of electrolysis, chlorine is produced naturally to kill bacteria, algae and other unsanitary elements in your pool. Saltwater pool systems can create a significantly softer feel to your water. You won’t the chlorine or even smell it, but it is still there.

While salt may be more beneficial and healthier than chlorine, both compounds can cause damage to your pool equipment. It can corrode both the external and internal parts of your equipment, and can also cause damage to your pool walls. Any metal ladders or railings are more susceptible to rust and break down. Long-term exposure to salt and chlorine can have a negative effect.

Saltwater pool systems can also inadvertently cause damage to stone landscaping positioned near the side of the pool from splashing water. If you have a flower or vegetable garden with in range of backwash or splashed water, the flowers and vegetation will most likely die if they come in contact with salt or chlorine treated water.

Saltwater pool systems may save you the hassle of having to handle chlorine, but they still produce the chemical directly into the water on a regular basis. Though the level of chlorine made by saltwater pool systems isn’t as harsh or as much as a regular pool, it still isn’t healthy for anyone. It can burn your eyes, cause itchy skin, dry out your hair and even change its color. Many medical studies link chlorine to bladder and rectal types of diseases. It has also been linked to coronary heart disease. Breathing chlorine fumes on a regular basis may cause breathing problems for children, as it affects lung capacity. Children who have asthma are more susceptible to the negative effects of chlorine.

If you love the feel of soft, clean water but don’t want to purchase a saltwater pool system, there are alternatives that are even more natural and safe for the environment. These systems may include an ionic water purification method. This kind of method combines oxygen and copper to create a swimming pool atmosphere that is healthy and environmentally friendly because copper is a naturally occurring element.

Natural water pool systems create fresh, clean water just as easily as saltwater pool systems, but saltwater pool systems produce chlorine and other chemicals. If you are looking for an alternative to saltwater pools systems, a natural water pool system is the way to go. Natural water pool systems are that much healthier because they do not use any chemicals or chlorine. They rely on natural elements to maintain a healthy pool for you and your entire family.

The HP rating of the swimming pool pump is most critical in successful operation of the pool and specific accessories. The most common misconception as consumers update pools with aftermarket pumps is that a 2 HP pump is superior to a 1 HP pump. A 2 HP pump will not function with a 300 LB sand filter, a 48 sq ft DE or a 53 square foot cartridge, the most popular builder sizes.
All pumps have a GPM rating as do the filters. A 72 GPM 1 HP pump is the proper rating for the aforementioned filters and a 96 GPM 2HP pump will require at least a 600 lb sand filter or a 72 square feet DE filter.

While subtle issues exist related to the plumbing manifolds (1.5” pipe vs. 2” pipe), total feet of pipe between skimmer and the pump is also a consideration.

The exception to this are accessory water features and in floor cleaning systems, usually new construction issues only. The trend is to incorporate both a separate pump and in many cases a separate filter, always required for more in floor cleaning systems.

Variable flow pumps, “Intelligent” engineering as the manufacturers call it, are now being marketed all through the U.S. mechanical track record and claimed energy savings are nebulous at best.

Two operating issues need to be considered beyond HP and variable speed or flow analysis:
1) The pool must circulate during daylight hours since algae are dormant at night.
2) Timing systems require the pool owner to be able to reprime their pump on occasion or pay for a service call if the pool fails to restart.

Many builders run the pump and filter 24 hours to avoid these issues. This “off peak” circulation adds between $10 and $20 per month to the monthly electric bill at average U.S. rates.

The leading North American swimming pool pump manufacturers are Hayward, Sta-Rite, Pentair, Jandy and Jacuzzi, all with service and parts networks to support their customers.

A pump failing normally overheats (shutting the pool off), trips the breaker or cavities the flow. Normally this gives homeowners some advance warning. The pump consists of an electric motor, wet end and basket. Because rebuilding the motor requires two trips and usually an outside vendor and those two trips, most pool professionals will recommend replacement of the pump, or at least a brand new motor. Do it yourselfers may save half of their money or more with a motor rebuild only. They are unlikely to get the same useful life of replacement.

Plaster Pools

These pools are also referred to as plaster, granite, concrete, pebbletech, marble light, marcite, or diamondbrite pools. The dominant form of pool, particularly in the southern US and Europe is a rebar reinforced, plaster or concrete based shell and a top finish. The terms granite, pebbletech, marble light, and diamondbrite apply to the finish. Absent one of these finishes, a ceramic tile or glass pool should be cared for in the same manner. A growing trend to resurface these pools with fiberglass finish has been noticed over the last 12 years.

Plaster Types:

• Grey or White – These are the least expensive, least life and highest maintenance surfaces. Basically, they are portland cement with or without a tint additive. For, longer life stone, glass accents and other durable items have raised the life of the finish and widely expanded the color choice.

• Pebble Tec® (Small stones in plaster) – The developer of the imitated small stone in the plaster has been Pebble Tec®. Offering a multi color, more water resistant finish. These finishes are more stain resistant and cost the builder at least three times more in terms of material and labor and are absolutely reflected in the cost of the pool or replaster work.

Operating Issues:

1. These pools must never allow calcium hardness to fall below 200 ppm.
2. These pools must be brushed weekly in high season or employ a suction vacuum.
3. These pools will stain or bleach, require 7 to 10 year reapplication of the finish, and are the most amicable to attached custom water features.
4. These are the only pools which allow large, free form designs and multiple water features attached with one filtration and purification system.

Because they lend themselves to free form design, plaster pools will always be a dominant force in the swimming pool industry. In northern markets they are significantly more money to construct.